My Facial Facts: Is Your Skin The Best It Can Be?

As soon as I suggest exfoliation to a client with dry or dehydrated skin, that is the first question they ask me.

I can see where they would think that.

Have you ever thought that?

Although I’m not dry (combination-oily to be precise, and I break out fairly easily), I shared this same philosophy on exfolation.

I remember I was breaking out like crazy, so I basically avoided putting any product on my face. However, it was the night I first exfoliated with an AHA that the heavens opened up, the angels sang and my skin looked a heck of a lot better.

Why had I not done this before?

I knew all the steps that needed to be taken, but for some reason I was aprehensive.

How do you know if exfoliation is right for you?

Well, if you have dry, oily, combination, dehydrated, sensitive, rosacea, mature skin (and any combination of these) you need to exfoliate. Read the previous post for the benefits.

Do you have dull/lifeless skin?

Does your skin have a rough texture?

Are you prone to break-outs?

Does your skin have a crepy texture?

Do you have little bumps under the skin that are driving you crazy?

Do you have brown spots/pigmentation you’re working on getting rid of?

If you’ve answered ‘yes’ to any of these question, you should be exfoliating.

But not all exfoliants are created equal…

I hardly ever endorse scrubs. I frankly know they don’t work as effectively as an AHA, Retinol or Enzyme can (to name a few examples.)

Why?

Firstly, because the granules are usually too abrasive and can actually cause microscopic tears in the skin. Scrubs are especially a no-no if you have acne-prone skin, very red/sensitized skin, rosacea, severly damaged skin or if you are using Accutane (i.e. Beware of St. Ives products!)

Secondly, (even if you get a scrub with silica beads for gentler use) it cannot penetrate as deeply as the other types of exfoliation. Scrubs are molecularly too large to work as far into the pore.

To help you learn more about the alternative (and much better form of exfoliation) read on:

• AHA’s or Alpha Hydroxy Acids: Are a family of naturally occuring acids and are derived from apples (Malic Acid), grapes (Tartaric Acid), milk (Lactic Acid) and sugar cane (Glycolic Acid.)
  • Glycolic has the smallest molecular size out of these and therefore penetrates the deepest.
  • Glycolic acid comes in mild strengths for safe, home use.
  • Many AHA exfoliants on the market are a combination of all of these.
  • AHA’s work by loosening the bonds of the dead cells on the surface of the skin.
  • Long-term use of AHA’s will help replenish intercellular lipids that are lost with sun damage and aging.
  • You should NOT use AHA’s if you’re using Accutane, recently had dermabrasion, laser resurfacing, chemical peel, Retin-A, Renova (or any Retinoic product), if you’re pregnant or lactating, or if you’re sunburned or planning to go out in the sun/using tanning beds (I hope not!)

• BHA’s or Beta Hydroxy Acids: These include Salicylic Acid (derived from sweet birch, willow bark and wintergreen) and Citric Acid (derived from citrus fruits.)
  • Salicylic acid is commonly used in acne products or used as a spot treatment for blemishes.
  • BHA’s exfoliate much more superficially and can really dry out the skin with repeated use.
  • IF YOU ARE ALLERGIC TO ASPIRIN DO NOT USE SALICYLIC ACID (aspirin is Salicylic Acid’s oral form.)

• Retinoids: A vitamin A-based chemical that includes prescription tretinoin or retinoic acid (examples: Retin-A, Renova) Tretinoin is a prescription drug.
  • Retin-A was originally used to treat acne, but it was soon discovered it had anti-aging benefits as well.
  • Retinoids reduce wrinkles, improve texture, and treat sun spots or hyperpigmentation.
  • Renova is more moisturizing of the two.
  • Retinoids re-establish a more normal epidermis, increase blood vessel formation and increase collagen production.
  • Side effects are irritation, redness, flaking, dryness and dehydration.
  • SUN EXPOSURE SHOULD BE AVOIDED!

• Benzoyl Peroxide (found in Proactiv): Is a popular acne medication ingredient that acts as an exfoliant and an antiseptic. It eliminates cell buildup by temporarily dilating the follicles and getting rid of the debris. It then releases oxygen into the follicle which helps in killing bacteria.
  • Works best on severe cases of acne and occasional pimples.
  • People tend to develop allergies to Benzoyl Peroxide. In this case, glycolic acid and salicylic are great alternatives.
  • It is a very strong drying agent and visible skin peeling will often occur (this will begin to subside as it begins dissolving the buildup of dead skin.)
  • Black skins should be very cautious with this ingredient, especially around the mouth (not to exceed 5%), as darkening of this area could occur.
  • No, an ocassional pimple here or there is not acne…more on this later!

Needless to say (as I constantly repeat it to the point you are probably sick of hearing it) it is my duty to reinforce the utter importance of an adequate broad spectrum sunblock, especially when using any products with these ingredients.

Skin treatments are to improve the skin, and an SPF ensures those results.

So if you’re planning a summer where you’re going to be on the beach/pool/outdoors, wait to begin your exfoliation upon your return home. If you have a lot of sun or are red from a sunburn, you must wait until your skin is healed before exfoliating as well.

To your skin’s health!

Derma Diva Marcy.

This entry was posted on Monday, July 7th, 2008 at 11:29 pm and is filed under Exfoliation. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.